Full Commitment Defined - The Best Bottom Turn Ever?

Lifes experiences tend to be amplified when one does them with full commitment. Heart, body, and mind going all in. Full commitment does not guarantee success but it sure does help. Why so metaphysical all the sudden you ask? This bottom turn from Jason Polakow (JP) gave me a little kick in the arse and here's why.

First watch this video of Jason Polakow at Cloudbreak last week - the link is at the bottom. It's short and ad free. Watch it once all the way through. Then play it again and focus on what happens at exactly seconds 6-7-8 of the videos counter. It's JP's moment of choice - pictured below.

It happens early. As Jason makes the first drop - seconds 2 and 3 he  is looking down the line of a massive Fijian bomb. As he makes the bottom of the wave, seconds 4,5 & 6 he sets the rail - but he sets it soft. Just a little pressure on the right foot and he gets to straighten out and head for the safety of the shoulder. But no. At second number 8 he does the unthinkable and lays in to the left rail with full mast drop lay down pressure. A barreling 25ft Cloudbreak face awaits his return. Simply the most ballsy bottom turn I have ever seen. The worst thing JP could do is go half way - he's either out or he's in. We all face the 8 second mark in our daily lives. Is the risk worth it? Will it be fulfilling if I make it? Should I just test it? Should I go?

Now I don't claim to have seen every big wave bottom turn - and there has been lots of them. This one however captured for me the spirit of commitment - that attitude that makes great new things happen. The Hard rail set - the drop of the mast - the hook up of the fins - all in. I have seen lots of bigger waves ridden but this different. This is chargin' it - not just riding it. Nice work Jason. Now get out there and charge!

Watch the video here (Its on Facebook but you should be able to watch it even if you are not on facebook)